Ropes for Daily Outdoor Use

 There are many different kinds of rope, and lots of them are good in specific contexts. You can never really have enough rope lying around. But one might wonder which kinds of rope are best for general, every day, outdoor use. In this article we will look at some of your options for just this. Twisted Rope Twisted rope (also known as laid rope) gets its name from the spiral look it boasts. This look is created as the rope is constructed typically using three strands that are twisted together.

The most common type of this rope is the cheaper, polypropylene stuff that you can get in most convenience or discount stores. This rope is not very strong, is difficult to knot, and does have a tendency to kink, but it does have some useful qualities which mean it is a good one to have handy when outdoors. It is water resistant, and it also sinks in water which may be advantageous in something like a rescue situation outdoors. The polypropylene form of twisted rope usually comes in a bright colour such as yellow or blue, which means it has great visibility when outside in nature. Twisted ropes are commonly used for anchor lines. Braided Ropes Braided ropes are constructed in a slightly different way giving them greater strength and abrasion resistance. They are made through the weaving of fibre strands.

The hollow variety of braided rope however only has a woven core, which means that it can be squashed flat quite easily but are less susceptible to kink than twisted rope. The double braided type of braided rope has one braided rope inside of another and can be used for anchor lines. Climbing Ropes Most modern climbing ropes have a kernmantle design which basically means an inner core and an outer sleeve. This design means that the jacket provides a good level of resistance to abrasion. The inner core is the part that gives this type of rope its strength. Dynamic climbing ropes, as the name suggests, means there is some level of give and stretch especially when exposed to a load. This stretch is good for climbers in a fall situation, but also for general outdoor use as the give can be handy when tying things to other things. Perhaps in a kayak situation, or for bike storage for instance. The static type of climbing rope is good for general haulage as it has less stretch in it.

Parachute Cord Also kernmantle in construction, the parachute cord is another great rope for general outdoor use. This kind of cord is often used on outdoor expeditions for lashing racks to vehicles for example. There are many imitations of the market, but real parachute cord of 550 grade has military specification which means that a braided nylon sheath covers seven to nine interwoven strands making it extremely strong. Guyline Cord There is nothing worse than a guyline breaking when you are trying to erect a tent in some tricky weather conditions and so it is always good to keep some spare. It can be handy in other situations too as some manufacturers make the cord in materials that are reflective making them easy to see in outdoor night situations where they are most heavily utilised.

It is quite thin compared to other ropes such as the parachute cord, and so it is also good for more cosmetic uses such as lanyards, torches, or anything else you may wish to lash onto your belt. Bungee Cord Frequently found in a camping situation also, bungee cord is one of the most stretchy ropes you can purchase. It is not unusual to be able to buy this cord by the foot, and it is good to have several different lengths in your stash. It can be used for more menial, but nonetheless important tasks such as tying up rolled up sleeping pads, or holding paddles. Sisal The least rope like of them all, sisal is a natural fibre made from the leaves of the acacia plant. The material is strong, durable, does not deteriorate in saltwater, and is also easily dyed making it more adaptable for use than some rope. It is however very coarse and can be dangerous to grab if moving at speed. Like with twisted rope, this is one of the cheaper options on the market, and so it can’t hurt to have some of this in your stock too.

Baling Twine Baling twine is basically a smaller diameter version of the sisal. It doesn’t have as stronger breaking strength as some of the other options and so is best for lighter duties such as baling hay for instance. It is also usually made in neut

ral colours and so can be of use when in an outdoor situation when camouflage is advantageous. Tow Strap Again, not so much of a rope as some of the other options discussed here, but nonetheless handy to have around when out and about. The flat webbings come with sewn loops either end which makes it nice and easy to secure to something when towing. They come in different rates for different load bearing capabilities and so do check before you invest. So as you can see, there are numerous options when looking for rope stock for outdoor usage. Each of which have their plus points, and their minuses. As long as you have a good selection of strengths, lengths, and stretchiness you will be set for your outdoor adventure. Rope, and lots of them are good in specific contexts. You can never really have enough rope lying around. But one might wonder which kinds of rope are best for general, every day, outdoor use. In this article we will look at some of your options for just this.

Braided Ropes

Braided ropes are constructed in a slightly different way giving them greater strength and abrasion resistance. They are made through the weaving of fibre strands. The hollow variety of braided rope however only has a woven core, which means that it can be squashed flat quite easily but are less susceptible to kink than twisted rope. The double braided type of braided rope has one braided rope inside of another and can be used for anchor lines. 

Climbing Ropes

Most modern climbing ropes have a kernmantle design which basically means an inner core and an outer sleeve. This design means that the jacket provides a good level of resistance to abrasion. The inner core is the part that gives this type of rope its strength. Dynamic

climbing ropes, as the name suggests, means there is some level of give and stretch especially when exposed to a load. This stretch is good for climbers in a fall situation, but also for general outdoor use as the give can be handy when tying things to other things. Perhaps in a kayak situation, or for bike storage for instance. The static type of climbing rope is good for general haulage as it has less stretch in it.

Parachute CordAlso kernmantle in construction, the parachute cord is another great rope for general outdoor use.  This kind of cord is often used on outdoor expeditions for lashing racks to vehicles for example. There are many imitations of the market, but real parachute cord of 550 grade is from a military specification which means that a braided nylon sheath covers seven to nine interwoven strands making it extremely strong.

Guyline CordThere is nothing worse than a guyline breaking when you are trying to erect a tent in some tricky weather conditions and so it is always good to keep some spare. It can be handy in other situations too as some manufacturers make the cord in materials that are reflective making them easy to see in outdoor night situations where they are most heavily utilised. It is quite thin compared to other ropes such as the parachute cord, and so it is also good for more cosmetic uses such as lanyards, torches, or anything else you may wish to lash onto your belt. 

Bungee CordFrequently found in a camping situation also, bungee cord is one of the most stretchy ropes you can purchase. It is not unusual to be able to buy this cord by the foot, and it is good to have several different lengths in your stash. It can be used for more menial, but nonetheless important tasks such as tying up rolled up sleeping pads, or holding paddles.

Sisal

The least rope like of them all, sisal is a natural fibre made from the leaves of the acacia plant. The material is strong, durable, does not deteriorate in saltwater, and is also easily dyed making it more adaptable for use than some rope. It is however very coarse and can be dangerous to grab if moving at speed. Like with twisted rope, this is one of the cheaper options on the market, and so it can’t hurt to have some of this in your stock too. 

Baling TwineBaling twine is basically a smaller diameter version of the sisal. It doesn’t have as stronger breaking strength as some of the other options and so is best for lighter duties such as baling hay for instance. It is also usually made in neutral colours and so can be of use when in an outdoor situation when camouflage is advantageous. 

Tow Strap

Again, not so much of a rope as some of the other
options discussed here, but nonetheless handy to have
around when out and about. The flat webbings come with sewn loops either end which makes it nice and easy to secure to something when towing. They come in different rates for different load bearing capabilities and so do check before you invest.

So as you can see, there are numerous options when looking for rope stock for outdoor usage. Each of which have their plus points, and their minuses. As long as you have a good selection of strengths, lengths, and stretchiness you will be set for your outdoor adventure.

Photo Credit: www.photos-public-domain.com,www.ropesandtwines.com, www.aliexpress.com

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Ronstan Rods & Hardware in Winning House Design

Ronstan works with winning team in the US Department of Energy Solar Decathlon Competition?

This year the Stevens Institute of Technology team competed against 13 other collegiate teams to win the Solar Decathlon in Irvine, California. The challenge was to build a cost effective and attractive, 1000 square foot solar powered house. Ronstan rods and hardwarewere incorporated into elements of this winning Sure House design.

We spoke with Tom King, the composite fabrication specialist of the SURE House Team, who summarized the winning house design. The SURE House name comes from SUstainable systems plus REsilience. The design incorporates innovative, strong and reliable energy efficient qualities. The house uses a tiny amount of energy, 90% less than a conventional house built to US  code. The energy used comes from a well known carbon-free source, the sun.

The sustainability aspect of the design is in the passive house building techniques. The structure is used to create an envelope to reduce energy loss and minimize transfer between the outside world and conditioned space.  The exterior is a wood structure made up of engineered lumber beams and joists, 2 x 6 wall framing, a steel deck exoskeleton and an adhered plastic layer for flood proofing. The deck frame was supported by cross bracing with Ronstan stainless steel grade 520 structural rods.

The resilience of the house was vitally important. The team researched and developed a structural system capable of withstanding flood tidal currents up to five feet and 130 MPH hurricane winds.  They needed a simple system for sealing the doors and windows to flood water and debris during storms. The solution was found in Ronstan marine industry technology. Glass fiber composite shutters were designed in conjunction with Ronstan and Aquidneck Custom and Gurit.

In the event of a storm, the house is designed to survive on its own. The SURE house can be used a s a prototype for other coastal properties.

Contact us for more information on how we can help you with your build projects.

  - See more at: https://www.ronstanindustrial.com/ronstan-rods-hardware-in-winning-house-design/

Stainless Steel Grades

Stainless steel is one of the most widely used materials on this planet, and it comes in a multitude of different grades and make ups. It is key to know the differences between them, and what this means for the steels various forms of applications across numerous industries worldwide.

Sometimes called inox, or inox steel, stainless steel is a steel alloy that is composed of a minimum of 10.5 per cent chromium. Steel is made into an alloy in this way to increase its corrosion resistance, rust resistance, and well – stain resistance thus its more common name.

There are austenitic and ferritic grades of stainless steel. These varieties offer different constructions within the steel. All stainless steels are made up of a combination of oxidation, acids, and bases. Ferritic types are magnetic whereas austenitic are not. Austenitic has austenite as its primary phase (face centred cubic crystal) and it makes up about 70 per cent of all stainless steel production. These are alloys containing chromium and nickel, and sometimes molybdenum and nitrogen. Superaustenitic stainless steel contains a high molybdenum content. Ferritic steels are high chromium, magnetic stainless steels that have a low carbon content – less than 0.2 per cent. This means they have better engineering properties and are also generally less expensive.

There is also a third type called duplex stainless steels. These have a mixed microstructure of austenite and ferrite, the aim usually being to produce a 50/50 mix. These duplex grades are characterized into groups based on their alloy content and corrosion resistance. You can get lean, standard, super, and hyper duplex stainless steels – all with their own individual formulaic make ups.

Choosing the right construction of stainless steel depends on its intended usage. All stainless steels have a good level of corrosion resistance, which alongside its strength, is one of the main reasons the material is in such common usage. The material is versatile, and compared to other substances available, it requires relatively little maintenance, has a long shelf life, and can take enormous loads.

The ‘stainless’ part of stainless steel is used for its heat and corrosion resistance. The nature of the environment must be known before selecting which grade to use, to ensure that the composition of materials is correct and up to standard for the context it will be used in. Mechanical properties must also be taken into consideration, that is, the strength of the stainless steel at a variety of temperatures. Its fabrication operation and how the steel is compiled should also be taken into account – as stainless steel of different grades can be forged, machine made, formed, welded, stamped, or rolled; each process bringing different strengths and weaknesses to the resultant product. These different properties are all affected by the chemical composition of the stainless steel. Stainless steel can be made from different percentages of the following materials, and the DNA of it alters its suitability in different environments and settings:

• Chromium: this helps with corrosion, scaling resistance, tensile strength and reduces wear
• Manganese: this improves performance in heat, can affect strength, acts as a stabiliser, and can be a partial replacement for nickel
• Molybdenum: good for high temperatures and corrosion resistance in acidic and salty environments
• Nickle: this also stabilises the austenitic structure, increased strength in high temperatures, and is a strong material for resisting corrosion in industrial and marine settings
• Silicon: this forms a tight initial scale that helps the end product withstand cyclic temperature changes, it is also good for hardness
• Sulphur Phosphorous and Selenium: these increase machinability and decreases transverse tensile strength
• Titanium: this prevents corrosion through acting as a stabiliser, it helps produce a diner grain, and reduces stretch.

Obviously all of these composite elements are priced differently, and so the make up or grade chosen may also be determined by economic constraints as well as the constraints of the environment. Manganese for instance is quite low cost, and grades with a higher manganese content are often cheaper.

Stainless steel grades are denoted by numbers. Type 201 for example refers to a low nickel, austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese steel that was developed originally to conserve reserves of nickel. SAE International is one of the standards organisations for steel grading, AISI is another. All grading bodies and systems speak a universal language which means the resultant numbering can relate to one another. For example carbon steels and alloy steels usually have a four digit number. The numbers relate to the alloy components and is a quicker way of being assured of the composites you are getting. The first number relates to the dominant alloy element, the second the secondary, the third the percentage of carbon present and the forth the weight. There are numerous combinations and so a great number of different options and types to consider when picking a grade of stainless steel. Wikipedia provides a great summary.

Stainless steel is popular not only due to its multi-functionality and suitability from heavy industry to jewellery, marine use to kitchenware, but also because as a material it is 100 per cent recyclable – whatever grade and composition it is. The material also lends itself to an impressive number of finishes that means you can achieve a variety of looks from a number of grades of stainless steel which is a highly attractive quality.

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Working Loads vs Breaking Loads

Understanding the safety factors of the equipment you are working with is paramount no matter the industry you are working in. With this, it is important to comprehend the differences between working loads, and breaking loads – which may sound the same, but they are not. Any configuration of equipment is only as strong as its weakest, or lowest rated parts. Both terms are a form of rating.
The term working load limit, is most frequently used in rigging terminology, it was the cornerstone of engineering for many years. It is the breaking load of a component divided by an appropriate factor of safety – a safe load that was the maximum carrying capacity. The terms usually apply to equipment such as hooks, slings, shackles and the like.
The working load, sometimes also known as the safety working load, or normal working load (just to confuse things further) is the mass that the equipment being used can safely hold, lift, or lower without there being a fear of breaking. In shorter terms; the maximum load that can be applied to the product safely when in general service. This is most accurate when the product is new and without any ware. This is measured on a straight line pull only, and side pulling can produce different results. It is also important to make sure that all components in a system have the same working load limit.
The breaking load also can be known as the rated capacity. This measure is the force that the piece of equipment breaks when tested at as opposed to measure of mass it can hold. Force is consistently applied at a uniform rate of speed to ascertain the breaking load. The breaking load, or breaking strength as it is also called, is a vital part of the calculation of the working load limit.
The working load is one fifth of the minimum breaking strength. The tests which are undertaken in the laboratory are testing under normal environment type conditions and so when using in adverse weathers or other settings that may include different chemical levels, this should be taken into consideration.
The working load limit of any piece of equipment must never be exceeded, and components must be properly matched. As logic would suggest, it is best to avoid heavy impact shock loads, or any abstract movement such as winging or jerking. Anything like this can lead to stress on the product which leads to the breaking strength and the working load limit being exceeded causing the wider mechanism to fail.
If you need advice on the right products for your safety equipment please contact us. 

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How to set up an Outrigger

Outriggers are a great addition to any fisherman’s boat as they enable them to increase their total catch. It is a part of the boat’s rigging composed of poles, which extend the boat. They enable the user to drop lines further away from the boat than if an outrigger was not in use, meaning there is space for more lines.
An outrigger is usually positioned rigidly to the main hull but as with most boating equipment, there are several types of outriggers and the mounts that they sit on. On small boats there is the wish bone, the deck mount, and the side mount. These all provide different levels of functionality and so when buying an outrigger it is important to consider the differences. Wish Bone mounts support a heavier outrigger, and so are most commonly applicable to larger boats. Side mounts are more popular when there is limited deck space on the boat, and so are more heavily utilised on smaller vessels. The deck mount however, is by far the most common on smaller boats that do still have an amount of usable deck space to mount the outrigger. If you want a long ranging outrigger then the Wish Bone is probably the one for you if weight is not an issue, deck mounts are slightly lighter, but side mounts the lightest.How to install your outrigger depends on which mounting option you have gone for, but there are a few tips that should be followed when mounting any outrigger. Firstly all mounts should be through bolted, preferably with stainless steel and additional backing plates. Secondly you need to carefully consider placement, to make sure that you have adequate access to the outrigger components as needed. Thirdly, do not use poles that are disproportionately heavy for their intended usage – pick the lightest possible for your boat and desired set up.
A crucial component of any outrigging system is the quality of the rigging. You will need a number of parts to rig your outrigger, including a nylon cord for running around it. You will then also need an outrigger clip to tie through the snubber and back to the line. The line should always be relatively taught – too much slack may cause the outrigger system to run into issues. Clips come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and again should be relative to the size of the boat, and the type of bait you are using.
With an outrigger fitted, two outside lures can be run wide enough to ensure that when the boat is turned the lines do not get tangled. Outriggers can appear complex, and many fisherman would be confused on where to start. Once you
understand the basic principles, some of which we have outlined above, it can seem quite simple. Quality bases and poles are a must, and these parts of the kit must be fitted properly before installation of the outrigger. Doing it on the cheap will just not cut it.
Outriggers as we know are constituted of two poles fitted to each side of the boat, they carry two lines higher and wider so that lines can be cast further from the boat. Outriggers also need a pivot, so that they can be retracted to an upright position when not in use. On a trailer boat this means they need to fold back to be completely horizontal or completely removable from the base using a pin or bolt. There are a number of collapsible pole set ups available but these are not necessarily the fisherman’s first choice as they can more easily rust or seize due to constant movement. These types of set ups are also not robust enough for any rough fishing conditions.
When setting up your outrigger you need to ensure that the end where the line attaches is at the right height. If set too high or two low you can run into problems. The ends of the poles should be about four to five meters above sea level for optimum usage. That is, an angle of around 30-40 degrees from the horizontal marker. It is important to remember however that the further the lines run, the more the tow angle is reduced. A reduced angle doesn’t help the lure’s action but can be improved by lifting the tow point by running it from the outrigger out to sea.
The tag line is another important part of the set up and it runs back behind the tip of the outrigger pole. They usually run about the length of the pole so bare that in mind when setting up your outrigger. The tag line should be attached to the tag line end with an elastic band which breaks when the fish grabs the lure. Tag lines can prove difficult for some as when out they are hard to reach but this is where weights form an important part of the outrigger system. Slides are also utilised to overcome this issues, and these are usually made of metal and are barrel shaped with a hole through to go over the outrigger line.
Two men can fit the bases and poles of an outrigger in an hour or two quite easily if all of the right equipment is there ready to utilise. Shock and bungee cords are also useful in the set up and you can usually find these as part of a standard tag line kit as well as the cork ball which sits at the base of connection points on the outrigger system.
Make sure you have the right components, and someone to help you, and setting up your outrigger should be pretty simple or if in doubt your local fishing shop or your boat supplier should be able to recommend the most appropriate set up.
Ronstan provide a range of specialist fittings which can be used for some of the key elements of outriggers.  This includes ourblocks and shackles.

How Do Smartphone Wind Meters Work?

With the rise of Smartphone devices it should be no surprise that plug in anemometers  or wind meters have been developed. For the outdoor enthusiast who is engaging in hobbies which are dependent on the wind these little tools are prized possessions. It’s easy to see how valuable this device is if you are hang gliding, flying model aircraft, sailing, wind surfing or even base jumping. This device could also be useful for people who need to work at height.

The devices are tiny and like your phone can be easily put in your bag or pocket. Using the devices is simple. You will need to download an app to your phone, plug in the anemometer device to the headphone jack and away you go. You will probably have a range of measurement options to select from. So far none of the devices appear to yet have the means of storing the wind data. I can’t imagine this is though a major drawback – after all if you want a weather forecast you can find plenty of those online already. The brand Vaavud have a map link which enables you to see where else someone is using a Vaavud – maybe useful for Vaavud Marketing but I remain unconvinced why as an end user you would want to know.

So, how do these gadgets work. The Vaavud boasts no digital components required...... Well, amazingly it is through magnets. There are magnets at the bottom of the anemometer cups which communicate with the smart device , which translate the magnetic data into wind speed information with an algorithm. Because there are no electronic parts the anemometer doesn’t actually need to even be plugged into the Smartphone. Plugging it in just means you are far more likely to have it in the right position for the best reading and in any case it needs to be within a few inches of the device.

These plug in wind meters are a great new gadget. They are sufficiently accurate for leisure pursuits and are priced to be accessible to everyone.

Our Products - Trusted for Safety

Ronstan products are developed using high quality materials. Our products are trusted globally.

We have specific equipment for ”working at height” jobs, for example:

• Wind turbine climbing kit
• Roof climbing kit
• Climbing kit for towers such as theatre stage towers, telecoms towers
• Overhead line riggers kit
• Helicopter rescue equipment
• High rise window cleaning
• Tree felling equipment

All of those kits will include several pieces of hardware such as pulleys, blocks and tackle, descenders and ascenders, slings, harnesses, carabiners, connectors, to name but a few. Within each of those categories the choice is vast.

A key element is safety rope. Safety rope is all around us in every industry, rope for sale is often safety related and it is one of its most common uses. For example, safety rope is a critical part of a fire fighter’s kit and means the difference between life and death on a daily basis. This example clearly demonstrates how rope can be used to create safety even in the most adverse conditions.

Life Safety Ropes

Although rope can be made from a number of different materials, fire fighting services only use synthetic rope due to the nature of the working conditions. Synthetic safety rope can withstand high temperatures and tough conditions more than natural fibres many of which would disintegrate in such conditions.

Life safety ropes are used to remove people from dangerous buildings, escape ropes are used for self-rescue should a fire fighter get stuck in a tricky situation, and utility ropes are used where it is not a person that needs lowering but equipment to aid the rescue. Fire fighters most often use the kernmantal rope construction also due to its better resilience compared to twisted or braided models. Fire fighters are also taught how to care for, clean, and store the ropes to ensure maximum safety. Safety rope may be the only means for rescue for a fire fighter on the job, and it is part of their intensive training to learn how to work with these safety ropes including tying appropriate knots within a small window of time.

Helicopter rescue equipment shows how pulleys at work are essential. Helicopters play a vital role in the rescuing of casualties and others in difficulties, be it a very sick or injured patient that needs to get to hospital quickly, or the victim of an accident that has happened in a remote or difficult location. What we can only trust in is the skill levels of the pilot and crew and how sophisticated the equipment is.

As well as being equipped with intensive medical care facilities, these helicopters also have advanced rigging equipment for the lowering and lifting of persons or objects.

One technique used in rescuing is rappelling which can be any of the following:

• lowering oneself using a rope hanging from the helicopter
• controlled lowering of an object attached to a rope, e.g. a stretcher
• controlled lowering by a person on the ground of a person or an object attached to a rope
• using a ladder attached to the helicopter to descend or ascend

Another technique is winching. Both the rappelling and winching systems are reliant on hardware such as pulleys, blocks, slings, ropes, cables, carabiners, snatch blocks, etc. The components are selected according to the expected weight of the loads to be raised or lowered, the efficiency of a pulley system depends on how many pulleys are used in the upper block and how many are used in the lower.

Abseiling
Abseiling is a popular pastime, but is also a means for people to travel outside high rise buildings cleaning the windows. There are, of course, stringent rules and regulations in place and the cleaners are thoroughly trained in the use and maintenance of their equipment, as well as how to clean windows! Some high-rise buildings have their windows cleaned by other methods, one of which is where the cleaners work from a cradle. The cradle can either be suspended from the top of the building or may be a permanent fixture. Both types have complicated pulley systems in place to raise and lower the cradle as the cleaners progress down the skyscraper.

Many would consider cleaning skyscrapers’ windows a dangerous job but surprisingly it is an occupation which has a low accident rate.

Tree Surgery or Tree FellingMention tree felling and many people will immediately imagine a singing lumberjack wearing a tartan shirt with a saw or an axe in his hand! In fact there’s much much more to tree felling than the feller himself. Tree felling is down to a tree surgeons experience and judgement but also, for safety reasons, has to be an exact science. Not only does the equipment have to be 100% safe, but also the tree fellers, both up the tree and on the ground, have to know every detail about their felling equipment and how it works.

As well as the tools and saws that actually cut the tree, and the safety clothing worn by the workers – helmets, eye and ear protectors, gloves, boots, etc., there’s a whole host of rigging components that may be used for the felling operations including:

• Stainless Steel Shackles
• Dead eye ropes
• Lowering devices
• Hubs and plates
• Ropes
• Round slings
• Stainless steel carabiners
• A pulley system, otherwise known as block and tackle.

Regulations are in place for every aspect of the felling, the workers’ support mechanisms, their back-up support mechanisms, the protection of the workers on the ground, the condition of the rigging, and the level of knowledge and/or expertise of the fellers. The rigging systems are quite complicated and the components have to be carefully chosen for their strength, their suitability and their durability. Tree surgeons need a whole host of equipment to keep them safe in the workplace of the canopy. Tree felling is an art, and those who undertake the work rely on a network of rope, bungee cords, straps, and slings, to keep them mobile in the tree tops. Regulations mean that workers must have a personal fall protection system in place which includes ropes and harnesses after a risk assessment has been undertaken. Positioning is incredibly important and this includes changeovers, harness setting, friction knot tying and climbing line positioning.

Access to the rope and footlocking technique are equally important. It is crucial that each point of the network can support the climber and any equipment he/she may be carrying. The system should be attached to a two load bearing anchor with a backup system in place to which the worker should also be attached.

The role of the ground staff in tree felling safety is imperative. There must be good communication between the ground and the canopy and there must be rope systems in place for passing up materials and equipment as well as bringing it down. It is the role of the ground worker to ensure knots, kinks, and tangles to not occur, and that any falling wood and debris is cleared of machinery and anyone else working in the vicinity. The person on the ground controls the ropes and modifies the systems as the job progresses.

As well as personal protection equipment ( e.g. safety helmets, eye and hearing protection, gloves, leg protection, and protective boots), tree surgeons need a whole host of fall protection materials which need to be inspected and updated regularly.

A work positioning system includes a sit harness with a pelvic attachment point and leg loop straps with some models also including shoulder straps. This positioning equipment supports the climber in the canopy and the anchor point must be no more than 250mm below the worker, and slack should not exceed 500mm. Adjustable lanyards are used as a secondary anchor to prevent swing. They also provide a supplementary load-bearing point when changing anchor. Fall arrest systems are made up of an anchor point, a full body harness and a method of connection between the two that is energy absorbent and shock absorbent.

All systems use climbing ropes which have to be between 10mm and 14mm in diameter according to safety regulations. Users must carefully consider the possibility of friction hitches and choose their rope accordingly with consideration of the other equipment being used on the particular job. The fibre type and cord diameter will have an impact on the types of knots needed as well as the impact of heat on the whole system.

Tree fellers are knot geniuses and the tie, dress and set of each knot must be spot on. Splices should be made by a manufacturer and suitable for the rope system in place. Karabiners are another vital piece of kit in tree felling rope systems as they connect the harness to a lifeline and are spring loaded and self-locking for ultimate safety.

Tree felling safety is no joke, and all of the parts must be in place for a safe working environment as well as the feller having specialist knowledge about their equipment.

Responsible employers ensure their employees are adequately trained in the use of all working-at-height equipment.